A Big Island, but a Small World

New Zealand may be vast and impossible to “do properly” in one trip, yet I keep being reminded of how tiny the world can feel. In a hostel in Greymouth, a group of British and Dutch travellers were chatting when the British woman made a joke about how awful Luton is. I had to stop this outrageous slur and mentioned I was born there, and the Dutch guy immediately asked if I knew Harlington. His friend went to Harlington Upper School and he is the whole reason he’s travelling in NZ. For anyone who doesn’t know, that’s my old school. A completely ordinary Bedfordshire comprehensive, yet this stranger knew all about the county’s quirky lower–middle–upper school system. The coincidences kept coming. On a boat trip in Queenstown, I met a couple who had lived in Silsoe—the tiny village where I spent the first 17 years of my life—and who now live in Maulden. It felt like my childhood was following me around the South Island.

Two Weeks, 1,400 Miles, and a Lot of Rain

Since arriving, I’ve travelled roughly 1,400 miles on seven buses and one scenic train—though “scenic” is debatable when it rains most of the way. I’ve barely scratched the surface of the South Island, but today I’m on the ferry heading to Wellington, learning to be content with what I have seen rather than wishing I’d planned it differently. I know how lucky I am to be here at all. It’s a lovely way to live, even if only temporarily.

The landscapes have been breathtaking. The mountains and lakes around Queenstown and Milford Sound were spectacular, though torrential rain isn’t the ideal way to experience Milford Sound. Hours on buses pass easily as I stare out the window watching the world roll by. I do miss Sheila’s encyclopaedic knowledge of birds, plants, and everything else outdoorsy. My attempts at bird identification are a pale imitation, but I’ve loved spotting fantails, kea, tui, and hearing the bellbird’s call. One of my favourite moments was sitting alone by Lake Tekapo, listening to skylarks singing over the water.

Towns, Penguins, and Cancelled Stars

Oamaru charmed me with its faded Victorian seaside vibe—and, of course, its little blue penguins. Lake Tekapo was stunning, though the night sky refused to cooperate. The Dark Sky Project was cancelled thanks to a blanket of cloud so thick not a single star appeared.

Greymouth lived up to its name—grey, wet, and moody—but it had the best hostel and my favourite Māori story, the tale of Tu-te-raki-whanoa who used his thighs to force a gap in the mountain range to let the water drain away.

Christchurch brought hot pools overlooking the beach and a hilarious 90‑minute, three‑actor version of The Lord of the Rings performed in the park. Locals around me shared chocolates and fruit.

Nelson and Abel Tasman: The Trip’s Highlight

Nelson has been my favourite stop so far. The sun finally came out, and my Airbnb host Karen (and her Jack Russell, Annie) made it feel like home. My day trip to Abel Tasman National Park was everything I love: sea kayaking followed by a long coastal walk.

The kayaking got a bit hairy when the wind and swell picked up. At one point, sitting in the back of a double kayak, the front dipped so low I couldn’t even see my partner as I sat on the peak of the swell. We made it back without capsizing, though, and the 10 km walk afterwards took me past golden coves and dazzling turquoise water. It was my perfect kind of day, and the park absolutely lives up to the hype.

Cinema, Buses, and a 30‑Metre Loaf of Bread

New Zealand has a strong independent cinema scene. I’ve already seen two great films—Sentimental Values (Norwegian) and My Brother’s Band (French).

I’ve been travelling with InterCity buses: £208 for 45 hours of travel, which should last the whole month, used like a time voucher. The buses are comfortable, have Wi‑Fi, make regular stops, and the drivers are brilliant. As I write this, the driver has just announced we’re passing through a town that once made the world’s longest loaf of bread—30 metres. Who says life is slow here? I wondered if I would regret not hiring a car, but for cost and relaxation, the bus has been perfect.

Food, Drink, and a Controversial Opinion

If Laos was all about the food, New Zealand is all about the scenery. The food here is good—great seafood in Queenstown, delicious fresh fruit ice cream, and a thriving craft beer and wine scene. But, controversially, I don’t think the pies are that great.

And one final observation: I’ve yet to meet a New Zealander who likes Jacinda Ardern. She seems far more popular overseas.