Albania: Six years late, totally worth the wait.

Following some brilliant holidays in Slovenia, Croatia, and Montenegro, Sheila and I had grand plans to visit Albania in 2020—plans the pandemic promptly flattened. Fast‑forward six years and I finally made it, and I can happily report that Albania is absolutely worth the trip. It’s still wonderfully affordable too: evening meals with drinks came to about £20 a head, and accommodation averaged around £30 a night. Now that we’ve arrived in Dubrovnik, the prices feel… let’s just say “ambitious”.

I met Mark in Tirana on 3 June, right in the middle of the demonstrations against the proposed Jared Kushner luxury resort. We could hear the chanting from our balcony and wandered down on our second night to take a look. Having read Lea Ypi’s Free, it felt extraordinary to witness how far Albania has come—from an isolated communist state where free expression was suppressed to a place where peaceful protests include families, toddlers, and teenagers waving signs. The demonstrations have now been going for 21 days, and I genuinely hope they succeed. The biodiversity here is stunning: butterflies everywhere, wildflowers in full bloom, insects galore, and yes, the occasional snake. On one walk near Lake Shkodra, dozens of frogs launched themselves into a stream as we passed, like a tiny amphibian stampede.

Tirana: Lamb, Cable Cars, and Cold War Bunkers

Tirana delivered some excellent food. Lamb in a sack—delicious. Tavë Kosi—lamb baked in eggy yoghurt—less of a hit, and swiftly added to the “never again” list. We took a 4km cable car ride (25 minutes of floating over mountains), joined a bike tour, and visited Bunk’Art 1, one of the 170,000 Cold War bunkers built across Albania. It’s an incredible, slightly surreal dive into the country’s history.

The Great Albanian Bus Adventure

We decided early on to travel by bus, having heard that Albanian driving can be… spirited. One taxi ride from Himara to Saranda confirmed this in spectacular fashion. After waiting for a bus that never materialised, we teamed up with a young British couple—luckily she spoke Albanian—and accepted a taxi for €15 each. Bargain, we thought. Then the driver set off like he was auditioning for Fast & Furious: Hairpin bends, mountain roads, over 100 km/h, phone in hand, overtaking four vehicles (including a cement mixer) on a blind corner. I closed my eyes and braced for impact. Getting out of that taxi felt like stepping off a rollercoaster you didn’t queue for.

Himara: Blue Water and Steep Walks

Our first bus trip was from Tirana to Himara on the Albanian Riviera. A four‑hour journey became six, but the sight of that clear blue water made up for everything. Our accommodation had a spectacular view—because it was halfway up a mountain. The climb was so steep we limited ourselves to a maximum of two ascents per day. One morning we left at 9:30 and refused to return until after dinner. Still, it was bliss: boat trips, swimming, reading, and a lovely birthday meal for Mark at Fig and Olive.

Gjirokastër & Berat: Ottoman Charm and Olive Groves

Next came the Ottoman chapter of the trip: Gjirokastër and Berat. Both were beautiful, but if I had to choose, Gjirokastër wins by a whisker. That said, our accommodation in Berat—a tiny wooden chalet in an olive grove—was magical. Chickens wandering about, a couple of tortoises, and on the final morning, an otter. Breakfast among the olive trees was perfection.Gjirokastër was also where we watched the first matches of the football World Cup, with bars setting up TVs outside and everyone settling in for the evening.

Lake Shkodra: Treehouses and Tranquility

Our final Albanian stop was Lake Shkodra, right on the Montenegro border. I absolutely loved our treehouse at the Lake Shkodra Resort. Kayaks, SUPs, bikes, a lakeside restaurant—it was an idyllic couple of days drifting in and out of the water.

More Bus Adventures

Once you’re actually on the buses, they’re fine. It’s finding the bus stop that’s the challenge. To get from Gjirokastër to Berat we needed two buses. The first driver promised to drop us where the second would pass—this turned out to be a roundabout on the edge of town with no signs. Just as we were wondering if we’d be stranded, a 15‑year‑old lad appeared and, in perfect English, asked if we were going to Berat. He told us the bus would arrive in 20 minutes and absolutely would not wait for us. He’d lived in Cricklewood for a few years and had a cousin in Croydon. Of course he did.

Agrotourism & Food Highlights

Albania has embraced agrotourism, and the farm‑to‑table meals were some of the best of the trip. Highlights included: Kazerma e Cerenit (Tirana) — an old army barracks turned into a gorgeous restaurant. Fig and Olive (Himara) — stunning sea views, slightly grumpy maître d’. Kantina Mani (near Shkodra) — a vineyard with great food; the owner had lived in Lee Green for six years so we had something to chat about.

Albanian Highlights

The food — fantastic meat and vegetables, and possibly the second‑best tomato I’ve ever eaten (Romania still holds the crown).

Swimming — lakes, rivers, sea… we dipped into everything.

The scenery — endless mountains and coastline.

The people — warm, helpful, and endlessly welcoming.

Next Up

More buses, two nights in Budva, two in Dubrovnik, then six days in Mostar and Sarajevo. The final leg promises a scenic train ride from Mostar to Sarajevo.