Forty days in Greece (and counting)

Forty days into my stay in Greece, with just five left to go, it’s safe to say this has been a truly relaxing and rather wonderful experience. I’ve never considered myself much of a “beach holiday” person, but it turns out I’m quite good at doing very little—swimming, walking, reading, sleeping, and (of course) eating.

One of the unexpected joys of travelling at this slower pace has been the chance to reflect. As I wander, memories from earlier in the journey drift back: Christmas with Estalle and Scott overlooking Seven Mile Beach; the hair-raising car ride with Nicky in Sri Lanka; climbing a volcano in Sumatra with Mark (and Jaguar, quite possibly the best dog in the world); and releasing baby turtles into the sea. Honestly, there have been far too many magical moments to list.

Island Hopping Highlights (and One Slight Miss)

My Greek adventure has taken me to seven islands: Milos, Sifnos, Serifos, Paros, Santorini, Naxos, and Evia. They range dramatically in size—from tiny Folegandros (population: just 719) to Evia, with around 210,000 residents (still smaller than a London borough).

With one notable exception, I’d happily return to all of them. Santorini and I didn’t quite click. Coming straight from the peaceful charm of Folegandros, it felt overwhelmingly touristy. A surprising number of casual chats seemed perilously close to turning into Brexit or Reform debates… not quite the holiday vibe I was after. That said, it does have a tomato museum—so not all was lost.

Unexpected Favourite: Naxos

I was genuinely surprised by how much I loved Naxos. After Santorini, I wasn’t expecting to enjoy another larger island, but its miles of sandy beaches were an absolute joy.

I hired an e-bike one day, took a wrong turning, and somehow added an extra 14km to my route. A scenic detour, let’s call it. Aside from that, it’s all been fairly uneventful—in the best possible way.

Top Picks

•Best beaches: Sifnos, Serifos, and Naxos

•Quiet charm winner: Folegandros (though I suspect it transforms in peak season)

Folegandros, in particular, stole my heart. The five little squares in Chora come alive in the evenings. With no cars allowed, children whizz around on scooters while adults linger over drinks beneath shady trees. It’s effortlessly charming. I stayed in what may well have been the smallest room in existence, run by a lovely Italian couple who also owned a gelato shop downstairs. The room came with a complimentary ice cream—arguably the best hotel perk I’ve encountered.

The Joys of Shoulder Season

Travelling in the shoulder season has been a win all round: quieter beaches, frequent hotel upgrades, and balconies with increasingly impressive views. The weather has been a little unpredictable—it was actually hotter in the UK last week—but it’s finally hit 30°C here. Thankfully, the evening breeze keeps everything pleasantly cool.

Chalkida Life (and Two Very Persuasive Cats)

My final ten days are being spent in Chalkida on Evia—a refreshingly non-touristy Greek town. I’m cat-sitting through TrustedHousesitters, which means free accommodation in exchange for looking after Kolyo and Zoe, two affectionate rescue cats who begin lobbying for dinner approximately two hours before it’s due.

Having an apartment instead of a hotel room has been bliss: more space, the ability to do laundry, and the chance to cook. As much as I love Greek food, after 40 days I find myself craving something spicy. If anyone could send over a curry or a handful of chillies, I’d be eternally grateful. The apartment’s balconies are enormous and overlook the sea. Mornings are spent watching fishing boats return to the harbour while swifts and swallows dart overhead—simple, but perfect.

Athens & A Cinema with a View

On my way to Chalkida, I passed back through Athens and finally made it to an outdoor cinema. Watching a film with the illuminated Acropolis glowing in the background is quite something. The Devil Wears Prada 2 was an easy, entertaining watch, and the whole experience was just brilliant.

Top Reads

Fundementally by Nussaibah Younis

A Guardian and a Thief by Megha Majumdar

The Hand that First Held Mine by Maggie O'Farrell

What’s Next?

In preparation for my volunteering at the commonwealth games I've been doing my on-line training but that is two months away and I’m just about ready to move on. A flight to Albania is booked, and I’ll be meeting Mark in Tirana on 3rd June. Given last night’s football result, I fully expect him to arrive wearing one of his many Crystal Palace shirts.

But first… a trip to the dentist. I’ve got toothache.

Always something.