Luang Prabang: Come for food, stay for the green papaya salad

Leaving Laos is hard, mainly because it means saying goodbye to the food. The idea that I may never eat some of these dishes again is genuinely upsetting. Succulent grilled meats at the night market, fat dripping down your chin with zero shame. The crispiest pork I’ve ever encountered. Green papaya salad so hot and citrusy that your eyes water, your nose runs, and your life choices briefly flash before you. And yet, the moment you finish one, you’re already asking when the next one is coming. Total addiction.

We crammed an impressive amount into our six days in Luang Prabang. One highlight was a mountain hike where we spotted a scorpion, ate lunch in a village, and ended the day kayaking on the Nam Khan River. Somewhere along the way our guide showed us a trap used to catch bats for dinner. Naturally, we asked what bat tastes like. “A rat,” he said confidently. We were none the wiser, at least he didn't say chicken.

Another day involved a fishing trip using a traditional method that requires throwing a net into a perfect circle. We did not throw perfect circles. The guide, however, caught some tiny fish, which we later ate alongside a delicious bamboo stew and—yes—another green papaya salad. Patterns are important when travelling. We also learned about rice farming, which turns out to involve thirteen separate steps, all of them exhausting. Highlights included wallowing in mud and attempting to plough a field with a water buffalo, an experience that confirmed I am not built for agricultural life.

Our ongoing talent for losing things has continued at an impressive pace. Over the week we misplaced a travel towel, two pairs of shorts, a water bottle, and—most alarmingly—one of my orthotics. After a lengthy discussion about how to replace it, I ordered a new one for £160. Approximately fifteen minutes later, the “lost” orthotic appeared in Mark’s bag. The universe has a sense of humour. Our only permanent losses are a guidebook and the water bottle.

One thing that’s very clear on this visit to Laos is China’s growing influence. Massive construction projects are everywhere, especially in tourism and infrastructure. Whenever you ask what’s being built, the answer is almost always: “The Chinese bought it—no idea what it’ll be.” It’s undoubtedly bringing more tourists to Laos, but whether that translates into real benefits for local people remains questionable.

Still, if nothing else, Laos will always have my heart—and my taste buds.